Muzzles are great

At DTCE we alway embrace different methods of training as we have found there isn't a one size to fit all dogs.  Everything we do at training is to enable the handler to get the best from their dog.  As instructors it gives us really satisfaction to help people the struggle with their dogs to find the bond that makes everything click into place.

Out naughty dog class on Monday evening is a very good example of this; when they turn up for their first visit the owners are understandably on edge.  This is where the use of a muzzle comes into its own, every dog that comes to our Monday session at DTCE has to wear one because it makes the dog safe; the handler can then begin to relax and concentrate on the handling instead of worrying in case another dog or person walks too close.  

Copper and Mable - both learned to play with muzzles on

I know some very responsible dog owners that have been given verbal abuse or just down right rude behaviour just for taking their dog for a walk with its 'hat' on; our view of the muzzle is all positive.

We use the muzzle to ENABLE dogs to be socialised; it is never done to the dog or used as punishment.  I've just been reading comments from someone who thinks dogs in muzzles shouldn't be allowed out in public places.  This seems to me to be a very narrow minded view on muzzled dogs; there was also a comment from someone who was having some issues with a dog they had rescued so had it in a muzzle; to me this dog will have a much better chance of learning to relax than a dog that is kept away from everything.  What would the first person do if they rescued a dog and then found it had anti-social issues? 

Would they give it back?

Would they keep it indoors?

Would they take it out with no muzzle?

I'm sure their response would be that they would socialise it in a safe environment (not sure where that would be ) and once the dog is relaxed they would then be able to take it out into the public domain.  This all sounds fine, the problem is that until you take your dog out into meet the public, you don't know how it will react as it is now away from its 'safe' environment, so would you be irresponsible and take it out knowing it could grab something or be responsible and use a muzzle so both dog and handler can relax and are safe?  

To all of the responsible dog owners that take grumpy dogs out in muzzles well done and good luck!

All About Dogs - Brentwood

We ( DTCE Dog Display Team Team )had a fantastic time at Brentwood last weekend at All About Dogs.

We saw some people we hadn't seen for ages (some of them even spoke to us). The dogs (and team) were fantastic and the displays were very well recieved.

I'm also really please for everyone at Aztec.  They work very hard to make sure it all goes to plan; it's very hard to plan for three weeks of non stop rain.  Well done !!

Jack!! - You're supposed to touch the Seesaw

Daisy (nearest to us below) was very popular and worked very well - she was excellent on the weave poles.

We're looking forward to All About Dogs at Southend 7th & 8th July and the Tilbury Centenary  15th July

All About Dogs in Suffolk - A really nice show

A clip of our display at All About Dogs in Suffolk.  The show was really good, our displays went down really well with the audience - Nothing we can do about the weather.

Brilliant Displays

 The displays really couldn't have been better.  The team (Dogs and Handler) had a fantastic time at All About Dogs in Suffolk and Newbury, even the rather damp weather didn't spoil it for us.  We stayed in a wonderful farm at Newbury, lovely rooms and great breakfast as well as miles and miles of space for the dogs to run.

It was nice to see old friends and make some new ones. 

We are reallly looking forward to All About Dogs at Brentwood.

Training Classes

Will and Lynda will be in India now helping with the rescue centre; please support them if you can.  You can get to their blog by clicking HERE

Despite the awful weather we've had over the last couple of weeks, training is going very well.

It's always good to see new people coming along and it's really nice when we can see a big improvement in their dogs behaviour in a shor time.

The field is a bit gooey at the moment but will clear up really quickly.

www.dtce.co.uk

How We Fix Agressive Dogs - Part Four

Every time your dog shows aggression, it’s an opportunity for you to correct the problem, don’t avoid it - cure it!

When he ‘shows out’ to another dog, handle him into a sit next you, the dogs shoulder should be roughly level with you leg and he MUST NOT put his paw in front of your foot, on your foot, lean against you or sit crooked; he will know how important this is and will try really hard to stay in front of you or sit anywhere apart from where you want him to.

Practice heelwork. The traditional side for walking a dog is on the left; so all instruction assume the dog is on your left side; Again the approach should be, when you take your dog out, you take your dog train him, not to take him for a walk.

The type of collar that you use on you dog can also have an impact on how your dog responds. We are happy to use a full check. Not everyone agrees with this, however, if used correctly, especially with anti-social dogs, I believe a full check to be a very good training aid. ½ Checks are OK but a normal collar doesn’t seem to work very well. When used correctly a full check should be loose all of the

time unless the dog does something wrong; then a quick tug and let loose again. To practice the heelwork, begin with the dog in a sit and lead in you right hand and loose to the dogs neck; as you move forward the dog will probably pull forward. This puts him in front of the pack. If you can turn right before the lead goes tight and add the ‘tug’ two thing happen

1 You go to the front of the pack

2 You correct your dog effectively

The dog will probably try and go in front again; if it goes past you, turn right and correct. I don’t use any encouragement to try and get the dog to walk next to me, if he’s wide or in front, I just correct him and change direction and add praise ONLY when it walks close to my left leg.

Another way of stopping the dog from pulling – begin the same way but this time when the dog pulls in front ; Transfer the lead to your left hand and walk backwards. Correct the dog with gentle tugs on the lead and growling ‘bad dog’ or ‘no’. This should be a quiet correction, no shouting. When the dogs head gets level with your left leg walk forwards and praise your dog. Let the lead go loose and if the dog goes past you repeat the walking backwards.

These methods will both help correct the dog for being in front (pack leader) and praise the dog for being part of your pack (submissive) – This works really well if the dog is just pulling or showing out against another dog.

Don’t try and stop him from looking at the other dogs; it’s a natural thing for them to do, so let him do it, just make sure he sits next to you or walks next to you while he’s doing it. You will find the more your dog works for you the less he will stare at the other dogs and the more his attention will turn to you. He will also become more relaxed because you have taken the pressure away from him.

If you can find some willing play mates, off the lead is better. I always use muzzles in the class but some of the handlers are happy for their dogs to be out of a muzzle when taking them out; you know your dog, so if it needs one why not use one? A lot of our handlers now prefer to keep their dog in a muzzle, it gives them more confidence, and make it much easier to teach your dog to relax.