Muzzles are great

At DTCE we alway embrace different methods of training as we have found there isn't a one size to fit all dogs.  Everything we do at training is to enable the handler to get the best from their dog.  As instructors it gives us really satisfaction to help people the struggle with their dogs to find the bond that makes everything click into place.

Out naughty dog class on Monday evening is a very good example of this; when they turn up for their first visit the owners are understandably on edge.  This is where the use of a muzzle comes into its own, every dog that comes to our Monday session at DTCE has to wear one because it makes the dog safe; the handler can then begin to relax and concentrate on the handling instead of worrying in case another dog or person walks too close.  

Copper and Mable - both learned to play with muzzles on

I know some very responsible dog owners that have been given verbal abuse or just down right rude behaviour just for taking their dog for a walk with its 'hat' on; our view of the muzzle is all positive.

We use the muzzle to ENABLE dogs to be socialised; it is never done to the dog or used as punishment.  I've just been reading comments from someone who thinks dogs in muzzles shouldn't be allowed out in public places.  This seems to me to be a very narrow minded view on muzzled dogs; there was also a comment from someone who was having some issues with a dog they had rescued so had it in a muzzle; to me this dog will have a much better chance of learning to relax than a dog that is kept away from everything.  What would the first person do if they rescued a dog and then found it had anti-social issues? 

Would they give it back?

Would they keep it indoors?

Would they take it out with no muzzle?

I'm sure their response would be that they would socialise it in a safe environment (not sure where that would be ) and once the dog is relaxed they would then be able to take it out into the public domain.  This all sounds fine, the problem is that until you take your dog out into meet the public, you don't know how it will react as it is now away from its 'safe' environment, so would you be irresponsible and take it out knowing it could grab something or be responsible and use a muzzle so both dog and handler can relax and are safe?  

To all of the responsible dog owners that take grumpy dogs out in muzzles well done and good luck!

TV Programme

Possible TV progamme in the offing - COuld be really good for Training and the Display Team.

Fingers Crossed

Brilliant Displays

 The displays really couldn't have been better.  The team (Dogs and Handler) had a fantastic time at All About Dogs in Suffolk and Newbury, even the rather damp weather didn't spoil it for us.  We stayed in a wonderful farm at Newbury, lovely rooms and great breakfast as well as miles and miles of space for the dogs to run.

It was nice to see old friends and make some new ones. 

We are reallly looking forward to All About Dogs at Brentwood.

New Display Dates

We are ready and really looking forward to our Dog Displays for 2012

The list of dates so far are below

All About Dogs - Suffolk Showground 8th & 9th April
All About Dogs - Newbury Showground 14th & 15th April
All About Dogs - Brentwood Centre 12th & 13th May
Robin Hood Show - Southend 7th & 8th July
Tilbury Centenary on the 15th July
Robin Hood Show - Norfolk 26th & 27th August
Robin Hood Show - Suffolk 6th & 7th Oct
Robin Hood Show - Newark 13th & 14th Oct

These are all really nice events - Please come and say hello if you attend

How We Fix Agressive Dogs - Part Four

Every time your dog shows aggression, it’s an opportunity for you to correct the problem, don’t avoid it - cure it!

When he ‘shows out’ to another dog, handle him into a sit next you, the dogs shoulder should be roughly level with you leg and he MUST NOT put his paw in front of your foot, on your foot, lean against you or sit crooked; he will know how important this is and will try really hard to stay in front of you or sit anywhere apart from where you want him to.

Practice heelwork. The traditional side for walking a dog is on the left; so all instruction assume the dog is on your left side; Again the approach should be, when you take your dog out, you take your dog train him, not to take him for a walk.

The type of collar that you use on you dog can also have an impact on how your dog responds. We are happy to use a full check. Not everyone agrees with this, however, if used correctly, especially with anti-social dogs, I believe a full check to be a very good training aid. ½ Checks are OK but a normal collar doesn’t seem to work very well. When used correctly a full check should be loose all of the

time unless the dog does something wrong; then a quick tug and let loose again. To practice the heelwork, begin with the dog in a sit and lead in you right hand and loose to the dogs neck; as you move forward the dog will probably pull forward. This puts him in front of the pack. If you can turn right before the lead goes tight and add the ‘tug’ two thing happen

1 You go to the front of the pack

2 You correct your dog effectively

The dog will probably try and go in front again; if it goes past you, turn right and correct. I don’t use any encouragement to try and get the dog to walk next to me, if he’s wide or in front, I just correct him and change direction and add praise ONLY when it walks close to my left leg.

Another way of stopping the dog from pulling – begin the same way but this time when the dog pulls in front ; Transfer the lead to your left hand and walk backwards. Correct the dog with gentle tugs on the lead and growling ‘bad dog’ or ‘no’. This should be a quiet correction, no shouting. When the dogs head gets level with your left leg walk forwards and praise your dog. Let the lead go loose and if the dog goes past you repeat the walking backwards.

These methods will both help correct the dog for being in front (pack leader) and praise the dog for being part of your pack (submissive) – This works really well if the dog is just pulling or showing out against another dog.

Don’t try and stop him from looking at the other dogs; it’s a natural thing for them to do, so let him do it, just make sure he sits next to you or walks next to you while he’s doing it. You will find the more your dog works for you the less he will stare at the other dogs and the more his attention will turn to you. He will also become more relaxed because you have taken the pressure away from him.

If you can find some willing play mates, off the lead is better. I always use muzzles in the class but some of the handlers are happy for their dogs to be out of a muzzle when taking them out; you know your dog, so if it needs one why not use one? A lot of our handlers now prefer to keep their dog in a muzzle, it gives them more confidence, and make it much easier to teach your dog to relax.

How we fix Aggressive Dogs - Part Three

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Some our dogs learning to mix

DTCE - How we fix problem dogs part 3

When you introduce your dog to a muzzle it should always be a nice thing for your dog never a punishment. If you haven’t used one before you could try dabbing a small amount of cream cheese, peanut butter etc on the inside and hold it for your dog, you should find they put their own noses into it, all you need to do is add praise.

You can transfer this type of handling to the street.  When your dog sees another dog and shows aggression, put him into a sit. 

The reason for doing all of this is to promote yourself in the pack so that you become the pack leader.

If you are in charge its your job to be aggressive, I don’t know you; but I suspect you won’t be aggressive, so neither will your dog.  Get the sit right and your dog will then start to follow your rules.

Tips:-  If your dog sits next to you but puts its paw in front of your foot or on your foot, it is telling you its in charge (most aggressive dogs will do this). Move the dog back into heel and make sure their foot isn’t in front of yours.  Never take them in a circle around and back into heel, because when you walk them in front of you they could quite easily think they are being promoted in the pack.

Try not to talk nicely to your dog to calm it down I’ve found this to enhance the worst fault as it praises the aggression into the dog.

Once you have your dog sitting on a loose lead as other dogs walk past; start teaching him to walk to heel. If the dog starts to show aggression again; go back to the sit.

Watch me – A lot of trainers will suggest you teach your dog to do this to help stop aggressive behaviour; this only works when the dog wants to watch you (or food) more than he wants to watch the other dog, correcting him for staring at another dog doesn’t work because in the dogs mind he’s doing his job – He probably thinks you are interfering and that means he has to try harder to prove to the other dog that he’s in charge and is more likely to show aggression.

Muzzles are a great enabler – I find that most dogs learn to get on if they are given the chance to socialize with each other.  We couldn’t do this unless the dogs were ‘safe’.

So, here we have the Catch22; you need to socialize your dog to make him better, however, you can’t socialize him until he’s better.

The advantage we have is the training class.  Everyone that comes to it has a similar problem with their dog, so they don’t have a problem letting them off lead together.  It’s worth mentioning now that although we let dogs off lead together, the off lead part doesn’t happen until the handlers begin to gain some control over their dogs.  

As I mentioned earlier, giving your dog something else to do when its being aggressive will promote you in the pack, it also means you can praise your dog for something instead of just correcting it for misbehaving.  Sit is the easiest thing to try – keep it simple.

Take the dog to the park but take him training not for a walk or exercise; this is an important point because you will go out with a different attitude and this will produce a much calmer walk.. 

Dog Training

Dog Training Centre of Excellence

Well we've been open for around six months now and its nice to see we are starting to get some regular dog and handler for our dog training classes.

We are based at Bareham's Kennels and Cattery in Orsett, very close to Tilbury Basildon and Thurrock.

Our field is enclosed so that any one that has a dog that dissapears into the distance when let off the lead can be more relaxed because they can't escape - Then we can teach them to come back!
I'll be adding updates and information about our training; thing like the tracking class or socialisation walk.  I'll film this weeks walk and let you see what happens (two new dog that have not been off lead before)